There isn’t a vertical in the alcohol firmament that comes in for as much scrutiny and criticism as wine but if there’s one exception to this brutal rule, Riesling is it, adored universally for its delicate floral palate and diverse styles ranging from bone dry to lusciously sweet. German by origin, Riesling has been widely embraced and grown across world vineyards on International Riesling Day (March 13), fancy a flight of Rieslings?
St. Urbans-Hof, QbA, Riesling “Old Vines” 2020
Germany owns the Riesling and has over centuries of hard work, crafted a range of distinctive styles of which the sweeter ones are most adored. So we’ve picked out one of the best — a vintage expression produced in the heart of Mosel Valley by a most traditional family estate, St. Urbans-Hof, shaped and headed by dextrous winemaker Nik Weiss. This fine Riesling, vinified from fruit grown on old vines is in classic form, exuding notes of mango, orange peel, hallmark minerality that comes from the steeply placed slate laden soils and of course, generous residual sweetness.
Kesselstatt is a German estate of prime repute for Riesling styles of the highest order across Mosel, Saar and Ruwer regions. The estate is steeped in 650 years of history and propelled by its modern owners who focus on terroir driven wines produced with minimal intervention. This vibrant and floral Riesling from the estate’s Goldtröpfchen parcels in the Mosel abounds peach and apricot, lifted by minerality and subtle acidity, finishing clean. Notably, this refreshing style flows nicely as an aperitif and can double as a gourmet wine, matching perfectly with asparagus, tomato sauce pasta and even some mildly spiced curries.
Helmut Donnhoff is perhaps the most famous son in vinous terms to the German region of Nahe which he singlehandedly made into a modern phenomenon. Donnhoff divined a modern Riesling style of bright fruit and minerality befitting the volcanic soil rich region of Nahe that sits metaphorically in the shadow of the mighty Mosel Valley. This dexterous third generation winemaker’s Riesling vintages hold their own as German signatures and the Trocken in particular shines with citrus, grape fruit and tingling minerality on a beautiful finish.
This opulent style of Riesling sits at the very top of the grand pecking order with an alluring palate of citrus, apple, crisp acidity complimented by a sweet finish. This winning style is vinified by Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, notably one of the region’s first estates to produce Grosse Gewächse (great growths), the Germanic equivalent of Grand Cru classification. The estate’s winemaker Annegret Reh-Gartner takes an organic approach to viticulture, nurturing the grapes into elegant and sprightly Rieslings in Mosel’s Goldtropfchen appellation, proudly called the little gold drop.